Home Inspection Checklist for Canadian Buyers

What a standard inspection covers

• Roof — age, material condition, flashing, signs of leaking or improper repairs
• Exterior — siding, grading and drainage away from the foundation, decks, and windows/doors
• Foundation and structure — cracks, signs of settling, water infiltration
• Electrical — panel condition and capacity, visible wiring, GFCI protection where required
• Plumbing — visible pipe condition, water pressure, shutoff valves, water heater age and condition
• HVAC — furnace/AC age and condition, ductwork, filter condition
• Attic and insulation — insulation levels, ventilation, signs of moisture or pest activity
• Interior — visual check of major appliances, signs of water damage, functional doors and windows
• Fireplace or woodstove — confirm WETT certification if wood-burning; this is a separate credential from a general home inspector

What's usually an add-on, not included by default

• Radon testing — increasingly common to request, especially in known higher-radon regions; a short-term test can be done during the inspection window with a longer-term one recommended after possession
• Mould testing — a visual inspector will note visible mould or moisture staining, but lab air/surface testing is a separate specialist service
• Sewer line scope — a camera inspection of the sewer lateral, especially worth it for an older home; catches expensive problems a visual inspection can't
• Well water testing — required for any rural property on a private well; not part of a standard inspection
• Pool, hot tub, or septic system inspection — usually needs its own specialist, especially septic

Choosing an inspector

• Confirm certification — CAHPI (Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors) sets national standards; licensing requirements for inspectors vary by province, so confirm what's actually required where you're buying
• Ask for a sample report before booking — a report full of vague boilerplate is a warning sign about the inspection itself
• Attend in person if at all possible — the verbal walkthrough is often more useful than the written report
• Ask directly how long they spent on the roof and in the attic — these are the two areas most commonly rushed
• Get quotes from at least two inspectors — price varies significantly by region, property size, and property type (condo vs. detached)

During the inspection

• Block out 2–4 hours and attend the full walkthrough, not just the summary at the end
• Bring a notepad and write down anything mentioned verbally that doesn't make it into the written report
• Ask about the remaining useful life of major systems — roof, furnace, water heater, electrical panel — not just whether they currently work
• Ask what the inspector would fix first if this were their own home
• Confirm your inspection condition deadline in the offer, and get the written report before that date, not after

Red flags worth a second opinion

• Any mention of foundation movement, active water infiltration, or structural repair
• Knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring — both often affect insurability and financing, not just safety
• An electrical panel brand flagged as a known fire-risk / recall issue by the inspector
• Signs of a past fire, flood, or unpermitted major renovation
• A furnace or roof at or past its typical replacement age with no maintenance records

Practical tips

• Don't waive the inspection condition to make an offer more competitive unless you've genuinely accepted the risk — it's the most common regret buyers report after closing.
• A sewer scope is cheap relative to the repair it can catch, and it's the one system a standard visual inspection can't see into at all.
• Once you've closed, move the inspector's notes on remaining system life into your home maintenance binder so nothing gets forgotten by month two.

Frequently asked questions