How to Clean Almost Anything in Your House

Kitchen

Glass stovetop: wipe up spills while the surface is still warm, not after they've baked on. For stuck-on residue, cover with a paste of baking soda and water, let it sit 10-15 minutes under a damp towel, then wipe with a non-abrasive pad. Never use steel wool or abrasive scrubbers — they scratch glass permanently.

Natural stone counters (granite, quartzite, soapstone, travertine): use a pH-neutral stone cleaner or mild dish soap and water — never vinegar, lemon, or other acidic cleaners, which etch natural stone permanently. Reseal granite and travertine annually; soapstone can be treated with mineral oil to even out its patina.

Cast iron skillet: clean while still warm with hot water and a stiff brush — skip soap for routine cleaning, since it can strip built-up seasoning. Dry immediately and completely, then rub a thin layer of oil into the surface before storing to prevent rust.

Disposing of cooking oil: never pour it down the drain — it solidifies inside pipes and is one of the most common causes of a blocked kitchen line. Let it cool, pour it into a sealed container (the original bottle or an empty can), and put it in the garbage, or check your municipality's site for a used-oil recycling drop-off — many Canadian cities have one.

Bathroom

Shower tiles and grout: a daily squeegee after showering is the single biggest thing that prevents buildup in the first place. For existing mold or mildew in grout, a solution of water and oxygen bleach (safer on colored grout than chlorine bleach) left to sit for several minutes before scrubbing with a stiff brush works on most residential cases.

Deep-cleaning the bathroom: work top to bottom and dirtiest to cleanest — ceiling fan and light fixtures first, then mirrors and surfaces, then the toilet, and the floor last so nothing falls back onto a surface you already cleaned.

Living areas

Leather furniture: vacuum first with a brush attachment, then wipe with a cloth barely dampened with water — leather absorbs liquid, so less is more. Follow with a leather-specific conditioner every few months to prevent cracking; never use household all-purpose cleaners, which strip leather's natural oils.

Carpet stains: blot, don't rub — rubbing pushes the stain deeper into the fibers and spreads it wider. Work from the outside of the stain inward, and treat fresh stains immediately; the longer a stain sets, the more it bonds to the fiber.

Blinds: a microfiber duster or a sock over your hand works closed-slat, one side at a time, for routine dusting. For a deeper clean, take them down, lay flat, and wipe each slat with a damp cloth and mild soap — soaking most blinds isn't recommended and can warp them.

Window tracks: vacuum loose debris first with a crevice attachment, then scrub with an old toothbrush and a mix of water and dish soap (or a paste of baking soda and vinegar for heavier buildup) — the crevice tool and old toothbrush combination handles nearly every window track without needing a specialty product.

Window screens: remove them where possible and hose down outside or in a bathtub, then scrub gently with a soft brush and a mild soap solution — a stiff brush can stretch or tear the mesh. Let them dry fully before reinstalling to avoid trapping moisture against the frame.

Floors

Bamboo flooring: sweep or vacuum regularly (bare-floor setting, not the beater bar), and damp-mop only — bamboo is a natural material that can warp with excess water. Avoid steam mops and oil-based or wax cleaners, which can cause buildup or damage the finish.

Cork flooring: similar rules to bamboo — sweep or vacuum first, damp-mop with a pH-neutral cleaner, and avoid standing water or steam. Cork's natural give makes it comfortable underfoot, but that same porous quality means moisture is the main thing to guard against.

Terracotta tiles: sweep or vacuum regularly, then damp-mop with a pH-neutral cleaner — like natural stone, terracotta is porous, so avoid vinegar and other acidic cleaners, which etch it. Unsealed or unglazed terracotta should be resealed periodically; if you're not sure whether yours is sealed, a few drops of water that bead on the surface (rather than soaking in) means it still is.

Laundry

Milk stains: rinse with cold water as soon as possible — hot water sets a protein-based stain like milk instead of lifting it. Work a little dish soap or enzyme-based stain remover into the spot, let it sit a few minutes, then launder as usual; check before drying, since heat can also set any residue left behind.

Mildew smell in towels: usually means bacteria built up from towels sitting damp or from underdosing detergent in a cold-water wash. Run a hot wash with a cup of white vinegar (no detergent), followed by a normal hot wash with detergent, then dry completely and promptly — towels left damp in the machine or hamper are how the smell comes back.

Everyday items

Makeup brushes: a gentle shampoo or dedicated brush cleaner, swirled in lukewarm water, rinsed until the water runs clear, then reshaped and laid flat to dry — never dry upright, since water can loosen the glue holding bristles in the handle.

Suede shoes: a dedicated suede brush, used in one direction, lifts most everyday dirt without water. For stains, a suede eraser or a pencil eraser works on many light marks — water actually sets most suede stains rather than lifting them.

Eyeglasses: rinse under lukewarm water first to remove grit before wiping — wiping dry lenses is the most common way people scratch them. A drop of dish soap, gently worked in with fingertips, then rinsed and dried with a clean microfiber cloth, is safe for most lens coatings.