Cottage Opening and Closing: The Checklist That Prevents the Expensive Mistakes

Opening: water before hydro, always

A dry pump running is one of the most common ways a cottage well pump motor burns out — which is why the water system comes back online before you flip the main breaker, not after.

• Exterior walkaround first — roof, eavestroughs, foundation, siding, storm damage
• Water system next — reconnect and prime the pump, repressurize slowly, checking every joint
• Hydro and propane — test circuits, GFCIs, and smoke/CO alarms; check propane fittings for leaks with soapy water, never a flame
• Dock and boat — reinstall the dock, de-winterize the boat, check life jackets (sun and mice both destroy them)
• Interior and pest check last — droppings, water stains, test the fridge and hot water tank

The water system is different for every cottage

This is the step worth slowing down for, because "the water system" means something different depending on the source.

• Drilled or dug well — reconnect and prime the pump, repressurize slowly, shock-chlorinate if it sat unused all winter, and test the water within the first week
• Lake or river intake — check the intake screen and foot valve for ice or winter damage before restarting the pump, and flush every line since sediment settles over the off-season
• Municipal or communal system — turn the main valve on slowly and run every tap for a few minutes to clear stagnant water sitting in the lines since closing

Most provinces offer free well-water testing through public health — use it every opening, not just the first year.

Closing: plumbing first, everything else can wait

Freeze damage is the one closing mistake that's genuinely expensive to fix, which is why plumbing goes first, on a day warm enough that antifreeze pours easily and traps drain fast.

• Shut off the pump and drain the system fully; open every tap, hot and cold
• Flush toilets and add RV/marine (propylene glycol) antifreeze — never automotive antifreeze in a drinking-water system
• Pour antifreeze into every sink, shower, and floor drain trap; drain the hot water tank
• Dock and boat, then utilities (breaker off, propane valve closed), then pest-proofing
• Exterior lockup last, on your way out the door

If the cottage is partially heated over winter instead of fully drained, the plumbing step changes entirely: confirm heat tape on exposed pipes, confirm the heat source has enough fuel for the season, and set up a monitored temperature and water-leak sensor rather than draining anything.

If you can't check on it often

A cottage a few hours away — or a genuinely remote one — needs a different plan than one you can walk through every weekend.

• Use a cellular-connected water/temperature sensor rather than Wi-Fi-only — cottage internet is often spotty or nonexistent
• Arrange a neighbour or caretaker for a periodic walk-through, in writing, with your contact info left on-site
• Notify your insurer if the property will be unoccupied for 30+ days — many policies have specific vacancy requirements
• Leave a note inside the door with the date and current system status, for whoever checks next