Plant care guide

Olive Tree Growing Guide

Olea europaea

An olive tree can't survive a Canadian winter outdoors, but grown in a container and moved seasonally, it's a genuinely manageable long-term plant.

Light

Full sun outdoors; brightest possible spot indoors in winter

Soil

Very well-drained, slightly sandy or gritty mix

Water

Let soil dry between waterings; tolerates drought better than wet feet

Hardiness

Zone 8–10 outdoors; grown as a container plant in most of Canada

Mature size

3–10 ft in a container, kept smaller with pruning

Winter care

Bring indoors to a cool, bright room before frost

Olive trees are native to Mediterranean climates and can't survive an outdoor Canadian winter — but grown in a large container that moves outside for summer and into a cool, bright room for winter, they're a genuinely realistic long-term plant, not just a short-lived novelty.

Planting & potting

  • Use a large, heavy container with excellent drainage holes — olive trees are very intolerant of standing water
  • Plant in a very well-drained mix, such as a cactus/citrus blend or standard potting soil amended with perlite or coarse sand
  • Repot every 2–3 years into a slightly larger container, refreshing the soil each time
  • Move outdoors to full sun after all frost risk has passed, acclimating gradually over a week or two to avoid leaf scorch

Watering

  • Let the top 2 inches of soil dry out completely before watering again
  • Overwatering, not underwatering, is the most common way to lose a potted olive tree
  • Reduce watering significantly in winter when the plant is semi-dormant indoors
  • Ensure pots always drain freely; never let a container sit in a saucer of standing water

Winter care indoors

  • Bring the tree indoors before the first frost, to the coolest bright spot available (an unheated sunroom or cool window is ideal)
  • Olive trees actually benefit from a real winter dormancy period with cooler temperatures (around 40–50°F) rather than a warm living room
  • Reduce watering substantially during this dormant period
  • Move back outdoors gradually in spring once frost risk has passed, reintroducing sun exposure slowly

Pruning & shaping

  • Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth starts
  • Remove crossing, crowded, or inward-growing branches to maintain an open shape that lets light reach the centre
  • Container-grown olive trees can be kept compact with regular pruning — they respond well to shaping
  • Avoid heavy pruning in fall, which can stimulate tender new growth right before the plant needs to go dormant

Common problems

  • Leaf drop after moving indoors or outdoors: a normal stress response to the light change — acclimate gradually over a week or two next time
  • Yellowing leaves and soggy soil: overwatering or poor drainage — let soil dry more between waterings and check the pot drains freely
  • No fruit: most container olive trees in Canada won't reliably fruit due to insufficient sustained heat and the need for cross-pollination, and many growers keep them purely as ornamental foliage plants
  • Scale insects (small brown bumps on stems): treat with horticultural oil, especially before bringing the plant indoors for winter
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Frequently asked questions

No, not in most of the country — olive trees are hardy only to about Zone 8–10. Growing one in a container that moves indoors to a cool, bright space for winter is the realistic approach here.

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