Bean Growing Guide

Bush vs. pole beans

• Bush beans (Blue Lake Bush, Provider) grow 1–2 ft tall, need no support, and produce most of their crop in a 2–3 week window
• Pole beans (Kentucky Wonder, Scarlet Runner) climb 6–10 ft, need a trellis or teepee, and produce steadily from midsummer until frost
• Pole beans yield more per square foot over the season but take about 10 extra days to first harvest
• For a continuous supply, grow both: bush beans for an early crop, pole beans for the long haul

Planting and trellising

• Direct sow after all danger of frost has passed — beans rot in cold, wet soil and don't transplant well
• Wait until soil temperature is at least 15°C (60°F); seeds sown too early simply sit and rot
• Sow seeds 1 inch deep, 2–4 inches apart, in rows 18–24 inches apart
• Set up trellises, teepees, or a fence for pole beans before or at planting — disturbing roots later stunts growth
• Do not soak seeds before planting; it often causes them to split and rot

Succession planting

• Sow a new round of bush beans every 2–3 weeks from late spring through midsummer for a steady supply
• Stop succession sowing about 60–70 days before your first expected fall frost, depending on the variety's days-to-maturity
• Pole beans don't need succession sowing — one planting keeps producing all season if picked regularly
• Keep beans picked every 2–3 days once they start; letting pods mature on the plant signals it to stop flowering

Care and feeding

• Beans fix their own nitrogen through root bacteria — skip high-nitrogen fertilizer, which produces lush leaves and few pods
• Water at the soil line, not overhead; wet foliage encourages fungal disease including rust
• Mulch lightly to retain moisture and keep developing pods clean
• Avoid working around bean plants when foliage is wet — this spreads fungal spores

Common problems

• Mexican bean beetle (copper, spotted, looks like a large ladybug): handpick adults and yellow egg clusters on leaf undersides; row covers prevent early infestation
• Rust (orange-brown pustules on leaf undersides): improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, remove infected leaves promptly
• Poor pod set despite lots of flowers: often high heat (above 32°C) causing flower drop, or excess nitrogen
• Seeds that don't germinate: usually soil too cold or too wet at sowing — wait for warmer, drier conditions
• Bacterial blight (water-soaked spots turning brown): remove affected plants, avoid working wet plants, rotate bean crops yearly

Frequently asked questions