Pet Lizard Care Guide
Pogona vitticeps
Most sick pet lizards aren't fed wrong — they're lit wrong; without proper UVB exposure, no amount of correct diet prevents metabolic bone disease.
Lifespan
8–12 years with proper care (bearded dragon)
Adult size
45–60 cm nose to tail
Diet
Omnivore: insects when young, shifting to more greens as an adult
Temperament
Generally docile and tolerates gentle handling once settled
Housing
Minimum 120 x 60 x 60 cm terrarium for an adult
Legal notes
Most common pet lizard species are unrestricted in Canada, but check municipal exotic-pet bylaws before acquiring one
Bearded dragons are among the most common pet lizards because they tolerate handling and have well-understood care needs, but they're still a specialized setup: correct UVB lighting, a real heat gradient, and appropriate humidity are non-negotiable, not optional extras.
Terrarium setup
- Adults need a minimum 120 x 60 x 60 cm (4 x 2 x 2 ft) enclosure; bigger is always better
- Use a substrate that's safe if ingested in small amounts — reptile carpet or paper towel for juveniles, tile or sand mats for adults
- Include basking branches, rocks, and hides so the lizard can thermoregulate and feel secure
- Keep humidity moderate and stable (30–40% for desert species like bearded dragons); use a hygrometer, not guesswork
- Clean the enclosure weekly and fully disinfect it monthly
UVB lighting & heat gradient
- Provide a UVB bulb rated for reptiles, replaced every 6–12 months even if it still lights up — UVB output fades before visible light does
- Position UVB within the manufacturer's recommended distance from the basking spot, no glass or plastic between bulb and lizard
- Create a temperature gradient: a basking spot around 38–42°C and a cool end around 24–27°C
- Run lights on a consistent 12-hour day/night cycle using a timer
- Use a digital thermometer at both ends of the enclosure — thermostat dials are unreliable on their own
Diet & feeding
- Juveniles eat mostly gut-loaded, dusted insects (crickets, dubia roaches) daily
- Adults shift toward 70–80% leafy greens and vegetables, with insects a few times a week
- Dust insects with calcium powder most feedings, and a calcium+D3 or multivitamin powder weekly
- Avoid iceberg lettuce, avocado, and rhubarb — low nutrition or toxic
- Provide a shallow water dish and mist occasionally; most hydration comes from food
Handling & temperament
- Let a new lizard settle into its enclosure for at least a week before regular handling
- Support the body fully rather than gripping — lizards can drop their tails when stressed
- Short, calm handling sessions build trust better than long ones
- Darkened beard and open-mouth posture can signal stress or territorial display, not necessarily aggression
- Wash hands before and after handling — reptiles can carry salmonella
Health & common problems
- Metabolic bone disease from inadequate UVB or calcium shows as soft jaw, tremors, or difficulty moving — see an exotics vet promptly
- Impaction from loose substrate ingestion causes lethargy and appetite loss
- Watch for stuck shed around toes and tail tip, which can cut off circulation if not removed
- A healthy lizard is alert, has clear eyes, and maintains steady weight — find a reptile-experienced vet before you need one
Want this whole guide as a printable PDF?
Everything on this page — quick facts, every section, and the FAQs — as a clean, print-ready PDF you can keep with your pet care notes.
Frequently asked questions
Unfiltered outdoor sunlight provides natural UVB, but most owners rely on a reptile-rated UVB bulb replaced every 6–12 months, since glass and screens block the UVB wavelength.
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