Gecko Care Guide
Eublepharis macularius (leopard gecko, as common example)
A dropped tail isn't a sign your gecko is fragile or that something went badly wrong — tail-dropping (autotomy) is a normal, built-in defence mechanism, though it's still a stress response worth reducing going forward.
Lifespan
10-20 years, sometimes longer with good care
Adult size
Roughly 18-27cm (7-11in) nose to tail
Diet
Live insects (crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches) dusted with calcium
Temperament
Generally calm and tolerant of gentle handling once settled
Housing
20-gallon (long) terrarium minimum for one adult, with a heat gradient
Legal notes
No special permits typically required for common pet gecko species in Canada; confirm species-specific rules if considering a less common species
Leopard geckos are one of the most common pet gecko species and a good reference point for general gecko care — they're ground-dwelling, don't strictly require UVB the way many reptiles do, and are generally tolerant of careful handling once acclimated. Their most distinctive trait is tail-dropping, a built-in defence response that's normal biology but still a sign the gecko felt threatened.
Terrarium & heat gradient
- Use a minimum 20-gallon long terrarium for one adult leopard gecko, larger for bigger species or multiple geckos
- Create a heat gradient with an under-tank heater or heat mat on one side, leaving a cooler side for thermoregulation
- Maintain a warm-side surface temperature around 29-32°C (85-90°F) and a cooler side around 22-25°C (72-77°F)
- Provide at least two hides — one on the warm side, one on the cool side — plus a humid hide to support shedding
- Use a loose, digestible-risk-free substrate such as paper towel, reptile carpet, or fine sand designed for the species and gecko's age
Lighting
- Leopard geckos don't strictly require UVB lighting since they're primarily crepuscular/nocturnal, but low-level UVB is now considered beneficial and is increasingly recommended
- If provided, use a low-output UVB bulb positioned so the gecko can move away from it as needed
- Maintain a consistent day/night light cycle to support normal activity patterns
- Avoid overly bright basking lights, which can stress a species adapted to dim desert/rocky evening activity
Diet & feeding
- Feed appropriately sized live insects — crickets, mealworms, or dubia roaches are common staples
- Dust insects with a calcium supplement most feedings, and a calcium-plus-D3 or multivitamin supplement periodically
- Feed juveniles daily; reduce adult feeding to every other day or a few times a week depending on body condition
- Provide a small dish of plain calcium powder in the enclosure for geckos to self-regulate
- Keep a shallow water dish available at all times
Handling & tail-dropping
- Allow a new gecko time to settle into its enclosure before regular handling begins
- Support the gecko's body fully and avoid grabbing or restraining the tail
- Tail-dropping (autotomy) is a natural defence response to a perceived threat — the tail can partially regrow, but this is a genuine stress event for the gecko, not a harmless trick
- Keep handling sessions short and calm, especially at first, to build trust and reduce stress
Common problems
- Stuck shed: often linked to low humidity in the hide area; a humid hide helps prevent this
- Metabolic bone disease: linked to inadequate calcium supplementation over time
- Tail loss from stress or rough handling: prevent by supporting the body and reducing handling stress
- Impaction: can occur from loose substrate ingestion, particularly in young geckos — choose substrate carefully
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Frequently asked questions
Not strictly required, since they're primarily crepuscular, but low-level UVB is now considered beneficial for calcium metabolism and is increasingly recommended by reptile keepers and vets.
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