Animal care guide

Pet Frog Care Guide

Litoria caerulea

Frogs absorb moisture and chemicals through their skin, which is exactly why handling should be minimal and why a misting schedule matters more than almost anything else in their care.

Lifespan

10–16 years for White's tree frogs with good care

Adult size

8–12 cm (3–4.5 in) body length

Diet

Live insects — crickets, roaches, occasional pinkie mice for large adults

Temperament

Docile but not suited to frequent handling

Housing

Vertical terrarium, minimum 45 x 45 x 60 cm for one or two adults

Legal notes

No special permit typically required for common captive-bred pet frog species in most of Canada; always confirm the species isn't restricted provincially before purchase

White's tree frogs are a common beginner-friendly pet frog thanks to their calm nature and tolerance for a range of humidity levels, but like all amphibians they have sensitive, permeable skin that shapes almost every part of their care — from how the terrarium is misted to how much they should be touched.

Terrarium & humidity

  • Use a vertical terrarium at least 45 x 45 x 60 cm (18 x 18 x 24 in) for one or two adults, since tree frogs climb more than they walk
  • Maintain humidity around 50–70%, raised briefly during misting rather than kept saturated constantly
  • Mist the enclosure once or twice daily to maintain humidity and provide drinking water on leaves
  • Include sturdy branches, cork bark, and broad leaves for climbing and resting
  • Use a dechlorinated water dish large enough for the frog to soak in
  • Keep daytime temperatures around 24–28°C (75–82°F), with a slight nighttime drop

Diet & feeding

  • Feed appropriately sized live insects such as crickets or roaches, dusted with calcium powder most feedings
  • Feed juveniles daily and adults 2–3 times a week, adjusting to body condition
  • Use a vitamin/mineral supplement with D3 regularly, especially if UVB lighting isn't provided
  • Remove uneaten insects from the enclosure, since they can stress or nip at the frog overnight
  • Avoid feeding insects caught outdoors, which may carry pesticides or parasites

Handling

  • Keep handling to a minimum — frog skin is highly permeable and absorbs oils, lotions, and residues from human hands
  • Wash and thoroughly rinse hands before any handling, avoiding soap residue
  • Wet hands first or use gloves to avoid stripping the frog's protective mucus layer
  • Handle over a soft, enclosed surface in case the frog jumps
  • Limit handling sessions to brief, occasional interactions rather than routine play

UVB & lighting

  • Provide low-to-moderate UVB lighting on a 10–12 hour cycle — while nocturnal frogs need less than baskers, many keepers report improved health with some UVB exposure
  • Position UVB bulbs so the frog has both exposed and shaded areas to self-regulate
  • Replace UVB bulbs on the manufacturer's recommended schedule, since UV output drops before visible light does
  • Supplement diet with vitamin D3 if UVB is not provided

Common problems

  • Red-leg syndrome (reddened skin on the legs/belly) signals a bacterial infection and needs prompt vet care
  • Excess weight or a swollen appearance often comes from overfeeding fatty feeder insects
  • Lethargy or refusal to eat for an extended period can indicate stress, poor water quality, or illness
  • Skin residue or chemical exposure from unwashed hands or unfiltered tap water can cause serious harm
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Frequently asked questions

A frog's skin is highly permeable and absorbs chemicals, oils, and residue from human hands, so frequent handling increases the risk of skin damage or toxin exposure — minimal, careful handling is best.

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